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WEVE split the atom, put men on the moon, brought down the Berlin Wall and raised the Iron Curtain.

But the inner workings of Disneyland have remained a mystery. No one has ever been allowed to go backstage at the Magic Kingdom for a sneak and peek as they call it... until now.

As Disneyland Paris nears its 20th anniversary, we were granted access to the world of Mickey Mouse and his pals to see what they really get up to behind the {brightly coloured fa(TM)ades.

The 4,800-acre site, built on beetroot fields 20 miles outside the French capital, has its own fire brigade, {mounted police, seven hotels, 74 restaurants, a nightclub, 27-hole golf course and, of course, two theme parks. Its more like a small country than a fairground.

And away from the public gaze lies a labyrinth of hidden pathways leading to the heart and soul of the operation.

Rules are strict and numerous. A team of actors, both men and women, play Mickey and Minnie. They use the secret paths to pop up at will, but only one of each can ever be in view at one time to maintain that Disney magic.

Moreover, none of the branded characters everyone from Pluto to Goofy is allowed to be seen talking, smoking, sitting down, eating or, worse, partly out of costume. To flout these is to face almost certain dismissal.

One insider says: Everyone who joins Disney has it drummed into them: Mickey, Minnie and the rest are all real. To say otherwise, even privately, is frowned upon.

Behind the scenes there are rehearsal studios with floor-to-ceiling mirrors. Snow White, Cinderella and {Sleeping Beauty are practising before their daily parade. Donald Duck and Mickey Mouse are having a chat outside, oblivious.

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The loved-up princesses have to adhere to a rigid code too. Even when not performing, they have to stay in character, holding hands with their relevant prince. Aladdin and Jasmine cling to each other in the wings as though their lives depend on it.

The actors and dancers undergo hours of rigorous training before even getting near their costumes. The first lesson is how to do the Disney point using two fingers instead of one to direct lost crowds so they dont appear rude.

Behind the facades of Main Street are more paths leading to the staff complex, which houses a cashpoint, a shower block and a canteen which has a board with a daily weather forecast.

Aside from the 300 characters, nearly 18,000 staff called cast {members work here. More than 75% are French and another 100 {countries are represented.

Sandrine Pialat, 44, is one of 10 in-house costume designers. She has worked here for 10 years. This is more Hollywood than {Hollywood, she says. Its like a catwalk show every day. I design 2,000 outfits a year.

Their workshop is situated in the bowels of the complex: a 100-metre long hangar with a {vaulted metallic {ceiling. Twenty benches are strewn with the latest creations. Captain Hooks outfit, {complete with purple hat, sits on a mannequin alongside yards of white silk for Minnies new gown .

There is a table piled high with wigs and cupboards stacked with shoes, hats and 25,000 metres of fabric. The clatter of 50 sewing {machines is deafening. Two walls are made of glass so the team can see what costumes will look like in natural light.

Down the hall behind an unmarked door is a grey storeroom the size of a squash court 650 shoeboxes are stacked floor-to-ceiling along each wall. This is the spares department. Buttons beach wedding gowns beach wedding gowns, lace wholesale wedding store , wedding dresses strapless zips and poppers. Its dressing up on an industrial scale.

Sandrine says {Plutos {outfits are the hardest to maintain: Kids are {always pulling on his tongue. He gets through 200 a year.

Celine Antier, 41, leads the 50-strong sewing team. She has worked for {fashion houses Christian Dior and {Christian Lacroix cheap a line wedding dresses cheap a line wedding dresses, but prefers Disney. It is so much more creative here, she says. There are five or six outfits for each character. But Mickey and Minnie have 800 each. Theyve got a dozen costume changes a day.

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Next door is the main wardrobe depot, a warehouse the size of two tennis courts crammed with every imaginable outfit: chambermaids, cooks, VIP guides. The main characters outfits are kept out of sight in dressing rooms. This is the biggest {costume house in {Europe.

One of the most popular shows is the Moteurs... Action! Stunt Show Spectacular a thrice-daily sell-out. A team of stuntmen screams round a track in souped-up rally cars and motorbikes. They jump out of buildings and set themselves on fire. The air is thick with burning rubber.

Brit Amanda Cahen, 44, is the shows designer. A former jazz singer, she says: A lot of us have a showbiz background but this isnt just light entertainment, this is like a movie. These are {dangerous stunts and things can go wrong but we havent lost one yet.

Behind the stage the {Disney Fire Brigade is on standby and out of sight is a crack medical team.

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Bjorn Heerwagen is the {Liverpool-born imagineer who built the Toy Story {Playland attraction, now open after five years of work. A glimpse inside his studio reveals rolled-up sketches: I cant show you the {contents, its top secret, he says. Does he tell people hes an {imagineer? Oh no, he says.I tell them I build rollercoasters.

Nearby in an anonymous bunker, three pasty-faced IT types sit hunched over half-a-dozen screens. Benoit Mangeard, 23, says: We control all the music in the park. We dont get out much.

Finally we spot the stars of the show. Minnie is friendly, if monosyllabic. Mickey stands silently as he prepares to go on. An aide is helping him with his bow tie.

I can never get the knack of tying this thing, says the aide good- hum{ouredly. Mickey nods without a word. After all, this is Disney... even off stage the show never stops.

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